Deconstruction: soft and subdued @ Sacai

This past collection ( RTW-FW 2014) has proved itself even bolder than previous ones, probably because the designer has suddenly found herself to be an influence and trend-setter – high profile types have been looking at her ways of combining tailoring with outerwear and similar mixes. This show was not so much an explosion but a smooth entrance of experimentation in wrapping oneself in as many articles of clothing at a single moment while still maintaining what would seem a paradox, impossible uber sexy edge. But she makes it possible. Somehow.

Sacai Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear

On the runway, plisse kilts were shown with ridiculous gaps that exposed bits and pieces of hips and thighs. I guess they could be closed for the mortal on the streets, but then again…why bother? A combination of textures was also seen in a fabulous marriage between velvet and cable-knit, together with layer upon layer upon layer of scarves, giving the wearer a Jekyll and Hyde, Day and Night, sexy-schizo appeal. I personally find strength in a designer and therefore a wearer-of-clothes who is not afraid to admit that the weather is obscenely cold, that she’s freezing, and she’ll be damned if she isn’t going to bundle the hell up. Donc, voila…here the collection. Let me just slip into my Fortuny pijamas I seem to have inherited from a Venetian Great-Aunt along with my leathery pleated skirt which I forget to zip all the way up because I’m just in such a rush, and pull on this massive, monster of a coat, with a collar so big it looks like a vest on top of another layer, then wrap on some twelve scarves in different patterns because who has the time or cares enough to ensure they matchy-match, and I am out the door! These coats are cartoonish in proportions and are just fabulous for shamelessly facing the cold. See image of the jaw-dropping biker jacket with fur all over that appears (only appears though mind you!) to be layered over an orange Prince of Wales man coat.

So what do we think about it all? To quote the great Icona Pop dynamic-duo: I love it, I don’t care.

Amanda Timerman

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