New York may have reclaimed the title of top fashion capital from London this year, but the British city remains number one when it comes to providing institutional support for Ethical and Sustainable Fashion. Launched in 2006, Estethica is the British Fashion Council Initiative that promotes eco fashion during London Fashion Week, with this year marking the first time eco designers were integrated alongside the main collections during the shows.
According to the website, designers are chosen to showcase for their design excellence and commitment to working in a sustainable way. But in order to be selected, they must adhere to one of the key principles —
1. Fair trade and ethical practice in the production process
2. The inclusion of organic fibers in their clothing
3. The use of up-cycled/recycled fabrics and materials
Below is a selection of brands (established and emerging talent) that showcased their AW14 collections under the Estethica tag during London Fashion Week.
The first ethical high fashion Italian brand, Cangiari literally means “to change” (in a transitive and reflective way). All fabrics and garments are made using organic yarns and colors, in order to respect the ecosystem and the welfare of those who wear them. In addition, the production is entirely “Made in Italy.”
Devika Dass is a Central St. Martins’s graduate who, before launching her own knitwear label gained experience as First Design Assistant to the Creative Director at Italian label Emilio Pucci. Rather than turn to mass manufacturing of her clothing, Dass focuses on organic and traditional production practices, working with local peruvian artisans to produce unique and exclusive pieces.
KATRIEN VAN HECKE
Katrien Van Hecke is a Belgian designer who uses organic hand-dyed artisan garments, woven jacquard designs and knits in her collections. Before launching her own line, she worked for Bernhard Wilhelm, Christian WIjnants and Hussein Chalayan.